Sitting boldly on D’Arblay Street, just a few doors down from Soho BBQ institution Bodeans, Bukowski’s third – and biggest – London venue doesn’t have its endless queues, but it deserves to. It prides itself on its smoking and char-grilling, as the tantalizing smell on walking in attests.

My boyfriend and I are effusively greeted by waiters Stuart and Owen, an entertaining double act, and after a drink – I go for the Frozen Cherry Bomb [£6] (‘an adult Slush Puppy’, winks Owen) – we agonise over what to order. I can’t not have the fried mac n cheese [£5.25], five delicious cubes of oozy goodness, served in a creamy, moreish cheese sauce with chopped gherkins. We also try the ‘puck nuggets’ [£5.95], a tender mix of pulled pork and shredded duck, served with a fiery kimchi dip.

Half the mains are burgers, so I order the Smokey Beast [£10.95]: everything on it is, well, smoked, including the pulled pork on top of the insanely juicy beef patty, the honey and chipotle sauce – even the garlic in the mayo. Filled with sweet tobacco onions, it arrives stacked at least six inches high – it’s daunting, but I cope. My boyfriend goes for the signature 72-hour beef rib [£12.25], served mainly off the bone, meaning I don’t have to watch him gnawing at it like a caveman. It’s perfectly charred on the outside, nice and pink on the inside – special mention to the beef dripping potatoes [£3.50] which taste just like my granny used to make. Overall? Naughty but nice – just like the staff.

bukowski-grill.co.uk.

Food: 8/10

Atmos: 8/10

VFM: 8/10