Another great little place has arrived to swell the ranks of K-Town restaurants, and it’s a belter. To make way for Beef & Brew, however, a Kentish Town institution, Pane e Vino, has had to disappear. Like many locals, I was fond of the place, despite not having been there for a long time, but hopefully this new incarnation will mean I come back often.

Beef & Brew specialises in two things. I am sure you can guess what they are. Inside, it looks like a cross between a butcher’s and a carpentry workshop, but it’s much more stylish (if minimal) than I have actually made that sound. So, yes, it specialises in beef, and beers (although wine lovers should rest assured there are some nice bottles available, including by the glass; we went for a full bodied Puglian Primitivo). The menu is brief, but lots of it sounded amazing. Beef comes as a couple of cuts of steak (hanger and chateau), as a couple of different salads (rare with walnuts and carrots or salted brisket with leeks), and there are even a few deviations if you absolutely hate steak, or meat. But it was the ‘beef buns’ which attracted P, H and I on a cosy Sunday evening.

H loved the sound of the ‘Cheeky French dip‘ – the waiter explained this was pulled beef cheek in a hot dog bun, laced with beer cheese and served with gravy on the side, for dipping. P and I  both went for the steak bun with shallot rings and truffle bearnaise, but first we had some beef and ale sausage rolls with beer ketchup to share, and some brisket jam nuggets. The sausage rolls (4 per portion) were covered in melting pastry, and the meat inside was tasty and robust, enhanced by a smear of the zingy ketchup. The nuggets were deep fried little balls of brisket; nice enough but not overly flavorful.

The mains scored highly though. H was tickled by the cow shaped gravy boat that came with the hot dog, which made for big, chomping mouthfuls of falling-apart meat, which our burgers consisted of exquisitely tender chopped up steak sandwiched between two brioche like buns, with a tarragon-y (though not particularly truffley-tasting) sauce. We had some sides, too; my faves were the chargrilled broccoli, which was incredibly moreish, much like their twist on mac and cheese: a baked dish of gnocchi with cheese and jalapeno peppers, covered in breadcrumbs. I could have had one to myself.

There are desserts available, and a short (presumably rotating) cocktail list, and – on Sunday night at least – a laid back, relaxed atmosphere.  I really enjoyed it, and am so glad (and not a bit smug) that I only live 10 minutes’ walk or a 3 minute bus ride away. Deep, deep joy.

Value for money: 7.5/10

Atmos: 6/10 (only because it was a bit quiet)

Food: 8/10