From the team that brought you MEATliquor/market/mission etc, here comes their new offering CHICKENliquor (well it was only a matter of time, surely). If you’re a little bit bored with downright filthy burgers, why not try downright filthy chicken?

How filthy it could get, my friends V and H and I were about to find out. Crammed into a small shack in London’s trendy Brixton Village, it’s brightly and cheerfully decorated, with some tables outside but we had to make do with a trestle table right at the back. And on a warm evening at the end of July, it soon got even warmer.

But initially temperature levels were ignored, as we squealed over the menu. It offers bits of chicken in the form of ‘wings’, ‘boneless’ and ‘burgers’ (with exciting-sounding marinades such as Korean, with daikon and fermented chilli, Buffalo, with a blue cheese sauce, and the intriguing ‘Chicken Shop’, which may have been a house marinade/breading.

As ever, we ordered for about 12 people, and it went like this: Korean and Garlic & Soy wings; Chicken Shop and Buffalo boneless pieces; the Tower Burger, with jalapeno, a hash brown, slaw and Russian dressing; plus sides of hash browns with more jalapenos and cheese, plus something called enotes – sweetcorn with lime, feta, and cabbage (I think; the menu changes regularly so it’s not often on it).

While we expected the boneless pieces to be breaded, we were a bit surprised to find the wings were, too; and basically had to wade through quite a lot of breading for the rest of the evening. There were a few palpable hits and a couple of misses. The Korean and Garlic & Soy wings were a unanimous favourite; both were tangy, zingy and moreish. With each portion containing about 6 wings, we were amply catered for. The boneless Buffalo pieces were nicely spicy, which contrasted well with the creamy blue cheese sauce, but the Chicken Shop pieces were a disappointment; served with BBQ sauce, they tasted bland whether you dipped them or not.

The sides were very good; the hash browns perhaps not crispy enough but who cares when they were smothered in plastic cheese? And the enotes made it feel like we’d at least ordered one semi healthy thing. The burger’s chicken fillet was breaded again in the bland Chicken Shop breading, so didn’t pack quite the punch we were hoping for.

By now we were basically full of breading (if that is even a word. Breaded coating sounds a bit more longwinded) and it may possibly have cancelled out any good that the proteinous chicken might have offered us. Probably best as a pre-lash-loading, or post-boozing munchie emporium, it certainly filled a snack gap (or three).

It’s cheap and cheerful too; with a beer or cider each, it came to £52 between us.

Atmosphere: 7/10

Value for money: 8/10