It’s our lovely, quite mad friend S’s birthday (her 30th no less!) and she has chosen to celebrate this auspicious (I nearly typed ‘suspicious’ just then by mistake – Freudian slip perchance?!) event in Hackney, her spiritual home, even though she’s a nice Jewish girl from North London. For those who know her, her selection of Hackney Bureau, a somewhat ramshackle, yet cosy, pop up style restaurant where you can bring your own booze (YES! ANNOYING ‘BRING YOUR OWN BOOZE’ KLAXON!!”) is totally par for the course.

When P and I got there, S was channelling Kate Moss’s own ‘Beautiful and Damned’ look from her own 30th, all ringlets, sequinned dress and eyelashes (rock star husband optional). There was a long trestle table seating about 30 people (good turn out), including S’s own lovely mum and dad and a host of friends. S is a writer too, and pens particularly amusing opinion pieces for new website XOJane, such as this recent one about pants. There really is never a dull moment with S around.

The set menu kicked off with generous bowls filled with olives, bread and almonds, followed by a rocket salad with lentils and some kind of mozzarella-like cheese. It all tasted fresh and vaguely healthy, which isn’t really what you want from a night out but the main was still to come: a large chunk of meat which looked as if it had been lopped off a passing Highland cow (and were actually braised ox cheeks, served with cabbage and carrot).

By the time the dessert arrived, so had D, and he pinched most of it (fair play; it was a dark chocolate torte), but then us oldies (ie over 30) retreated off home (well it was gone 11 after all) while the So Solid S Crew partied it up at The Dolphin till approximately 6am. I feel tired just writing that sentence.