First, there was MEATWagon, a mobile burger purveyor that popped up in various locations around London, bringing solace and sweet, sweet buns filled with delicious meat to afficionados of the perfect patty. Then they got their first permanent location, MEATliquor, behind Oxford Street, which I did visit once, at 11.30pm, as another attempt to go there at an actual time you might want to eat, ie between around 7pm and 9.30pm, resulted in mile long queues around the block and a 2 hour wait.

Then I was invited to the opening of MEATmarket, handily – and obscurely – positioned on the first floor of Covent Garden’s Jubilee Market Hall. I remember having lots of beer, something called the Dead Hippie Burger (I was promised no actual hippies were harmed in the making of this menu item), chilli cheese fries, and some chilli nachos. I liked it. A lot.

So there was great rejoicing and Hallelujahs when I heard that another branch had opened in Hoxton: MEATmission. On a Monday night at 6.30pm it was fairly easy to get a table, and the venue, which used to be a real, actual Christian mission, doing things like (I assume) feeding the needy, was certainly welcoming. The interior is all wooden trestle tables, illuminated stained glass window-like images (pseudo religious with a hint of Gilbert and George) and animated Hoxton types.

But stuff them, get to the menu. Divided (only a tad cheesily) into Baptism, Communion, Confirmation and Last Rites (can you see what they did there?), it is – aptly – full of wicked temptation.

To start, P and I shared a dish of Hippie Fries, slim frites slathered in fried onions and their trademark Hippie Sauce. While P then had a cheeseburger, I went for a Green Chilli Cheeseburger (with cheese, chilli butter, red onion, pickles, mustard and ketchup) in an attempt to blast away the beginnings of a cold. It worked; it was demonically hot, but delicious, the soft bun giving way to tender meat, cooked medium rare, smothered in melted cheese and the spicy green chilli butter.

We washed it down with a nice Merlot (Sideways fans, look away now) and the bill came to £20 a head. Genius, and godly. I’ll be worshipping at its meaty temple (yes, yes, I know) again as soon as I get the chance.