Whoever came up with the idea for MNKY HSE, a new bar and restaurant on the site of the old Dover Street Wine Bar, wasn’t, ahem, monkeying around. It’s big. It’s bold. It has a DJ upstairs. It makes monkeys very much the interior design theme. And it’s a few doors up from Eurotrash haunt Mahiki. I expected to loathe it; instead, I loved it.

The vast space downstairs seats 130 – it could have felt cavernous and impersonal, but thanks to various alcoves, pillars, and the genuinely friendly staff, it had the opposite effect. My favourite touch was the little model monkeys on the place settings (D wanted to collect the full set), and I also loved the modern orange, brown and bronze décor. But what surprised me most was the food; Mexican chef Pablo Najera’s Latin American menu uses fresh, seasonal ingredients which are served prettily on the plate.

D and I share fresh scallop ceviche [£18], served on a creamy avocado, chilli and coriander base; wagyu tostadas [£14.50], intense, fat-infused bites of beef on a crispy base; and pork belly tacos [£16.50] – meltingly good pig, with a habanero hit.

During the main course, D falls in love – with a fish. He practically snatches the black cod with miso [£35] from me, so I console myself with the criminally good beef tenderloin [£39], which arrives still smoking atop a small grill. Goat cheese-stuffed courgette flowers [£18] are a moreish addition to the proceedings. The glam, up-for-it crowd are clearly enjoying the buzzy atmosphere; as for me, well, this monkey’s gone to heaven…