Yes, yes, eating’s cheating on a night out in Mykonos but sometimes you don’t want to trip the light fandango down Jackie O’s, you just want a nice meal sitting in a lively square with the option of heading to the Skandinavian bar round the corner for a bit of light peoplewatching after…

D and I had two days on our own after our friends headed off to Naxos and Santorini, so after a terribly busy day sunbathing at Paradise, we headed out in search of sustenance around 9pm. Prior to that, though, we headed to the windmills near Little Venice to watch the sunset, which is one of my favourite things to do ever.

After the last orangey-pink rays had died away, we headed off to the centre of town. The square where Nikos is situated is also home to Mykonos’ resident pelican. There’s a whole backstory as to why Mykonos has a resident pelican, and you can read it here. Alas, said pelican was not around when we rocked up to Nilos taverna, but an awful lot of people were. This restaurant is huge; there are probably around 100 covers, and it spawls up into a neighbouring piazza and around a corner. Service is swift and efficient (usually) but then they have been doing this for decades.

Despite its longevity, I don’t think D and I had ever eaten here, but again, it’s good, hearty Greek fare. We shared a Mykonian cheese pie to start, all filo pastry and salty, creamy goodness, then I ordered the octopus pasta, which came as big pasta shells holding chunks of octopus which had been simmered in a wine and tomato sauce. It was – there is no other word – yummy. D went for a perennial favourite, pastitsio – a lardy pasta bake – and there was, of course, a Greek salad to share. Plus a litre of highly drinkable pink wine at 10euros. That may explain why we then went round the corner to the Skandy (as we like to call it) and drank white wine till 2am. Ooops.

Atmosphere: 8/10 – busy, buzzing, great for people watching

Food: 7/10 – good, comforting, hearty Greek fare

Value for money – 8/10 – cheap and cheerful