Londoners lucky enough to have visited Trullo in Highbury & Islington will already know about its glorious, handmade pastas. Now its owners have brought Padella, a pasta-only restaurant to Borough, which, to someone who sees it as its very own food group, is a total winner. It’s already been garnering rave reviews – further proof here, as if needed, that Marina O’Loughlin is my kinda girl – and I could not WAIT to try it.

It’s quite a small space (they do have more room downstairs, but upstairs is where it’s bright and airy, due to the massive plate glass window at the front), and I can see how it could get very very crowded. Upstairs, you sit at marble counters by the window, wall, or propped up by the narrow open kitchen, where you can see the chefs attending to each dish with concentration and flair.

All pasta is made on the premises, and prices are, for London, frankly ludicrous, starting at only £5.50 for a basic tagliarini with slow-cooked tomato sauce, and not shooting past a tenner. Some dishes will change seasonally, but there will be two or three permanently on the menu. There are several wines ‘on tap’ and a range of beers, and I have a couple of glasses of a lovely, crisp pink spumante.

D and I start with a small plate of Salame ‘Lovison’ [£5.50], a soft-cured, peppery sausage from a speciality salumeria in northern Italy, and some creamy, spreadable burrata [£5], which I apply liberally to the home-made sourdough with olive oil [£2].

Then, the main event. Tagliarini with nduja, mascarpone and parsley [£7.50] is so hot it should come with a health warning – the fiery sausage is barely tamed by the cooling cheese, delivering a whopping – and exciting – punch to the palate. Padella’s star dish, pappardelle with 8-hour Dexter shin beef shin ragu [£9.80], is a messy joy of tender, intensely-flavoured, off-the-bone meat cooked with soffrito, the traditional Italian ragu base of fried celery, onion and carrot, on silky pasta strands.

But I nearly lose my mind over the pici cacio e pepe [£6]; the deliciously al dente, worm-like, slippery strands are coated in a mix of parmesan, pepper and lemon, and I greedily slurp them up, like udon noodles, immediately wanting more. I am appeased with a delicate slice of almond and nespole (a soft fruit) tart [£4], but vow to return as soon as possible. Or possibly move to the area, permanently. Get yourselves down here NOW.

Food: 10/10

Atmosphere: 8/10

VFM: 9/10