Should you know anyone who refuses to eat their greens, child or adult, take them to Perilla, pronto. What former Noma chef Ben Marks can do with a cruciferous vegetable has to be tasted to be believed. My friend and I have ordered the set menu (a veritable bargain at £38 for five courses), at this lovely new dining room just off Newington Green.

Marks and co-owner Mark Emmerson, ex of Polpo and Polpetto, have created a relaxed, airy space, with exposed brickwork walls and simple wooden furnishings. It’s not huge – it only seats 44 – but it’s clearly already popular, awash with couples and groups of friends the night we go.

Back to the greens: one of the dishes (which will change according to season) is listed as ‘potroast broccoli with cabbage.’ What we get is sweet, chewy chargrilled stems, on a bed of creamy kale puree, with shards of crisp, nori-like cabbage. A salty yoghurt sauce is poured over it, bringing an intense background flavour. We clear our plates (our Mums would be so proud).

Other hits include aged lamb ribs with cucumber relish, the meat so tender it can be sucked off the bone; a juicy, rare piece of roast duckling partnered with a mild sauerkraut and pickled chanterelle mushrooms; and a creamy, comforting bowl of fried duck egg with mussels, covered in a vibrant green parsley and chopped mussel sauce.

Dessert is a comical-looking bowl of peeled grapes in a delicious walnut custard, with a small herb leaf on each one so it looks like a host of eyes looking up at you, or else some very tasty frogspawn. My mate and I barely speak, we’re so busy making obscene ‘mmmm’ sounds and licking our fingers. Marks has a skilled yet delicate touch, and every dish hits the spot. With a modestly priced wine list, and their own range of delicious infused gins, I predict it will soon be quite hard to get a table here…