So it’s not every night you have dinner with a pop star, but on my recent visit to the wonderful, wonderful city of Copenhagen, I found myself sat at the next table to none other than Katy Perry. She obviously liked the idea of a slick, stylish new restaurant in one of the more fashionable areas (this is situated very near Nyhavn), and so did I, particularly when I discovered it was basically right across the road from our hotel.

It’s called Pluto, and its concept is a mix of smaller and larger sharing plates, with an Italian focus. The menu changes regularly, and when we went (towards early March), there were plenty of good things to choose from. Copenhagen is blessed with many temples to gastronomy, and this year has now amassed 18 Michelin stars, but you don’t need to go to any of them to get a good meal, and you will certainly pay less if you come somewhere like this (most bigger dishes range between £10 and £17 – for the lobster hotdog – and there are dozens of smaller ones from around £4 to £7).

It’s low lit, with dark wood tables and a long bar to one side, and we were sitting fairly near the front. Ms Perry was at a table behind me, on a surprisingly well behaved table with around 11 other people. But i digress; it wasn’t all about her, it was about the food too. D and I shared a selection of charcuterie to start, a good sized plate for £11, with cornichons and bread included. There were plentiful slices of silky Iberico ham, pepper salami, a massive chunk of rough, intense boar pate and rillettes. It was very, very good.

We may have over ordered on the mains, but we did our level best to finish them. First was cod with potato and dill, which was a nice hunk of fresh tasting flaky fish; we also had scallops (you only got two but they were huge and meaty) with celeriac, smoked lardo and a red wine sauce – this was also delicious; the scallops were cooked well, still slightly translucent but with a good bite to them, and worked well with the sauce.

We also ordered the smoked pork sandwich, which turned out to be two little sliders with a slab of pork, rather than pulled pork (which I think D had been expecting) between soft buns. Alongside all this was an extraordinary ‘macaroni gratin’ (my new favourite way to describe mac n cheese): baked so that the cheese on top had formed a gooey, stiff crust, with distinctively flavoured cheeses, I practically liked the dish clean. We also had a big green salad (which interestingly came with slivers of pear) and the one thing I couldn’t finish: tempura vegetables with a miso mayo. This was the only thing I didn’t like as much as the batter was much heavier and greasier than it should normally be.

With no room for dessert, and lacking the nerve to ask La Perry to give us a song, we left, thankfully with not far to stagger home.

Food: 8/10

Value for money: 7/10

Atmosphere: 11/10 (extra points for having Katy Perry in there)