So, just as Spring should be poking its crocus-y little head around the corner, it is in fact most definitely not – and the temperature appears to have sunk lower than ever. I, and the rest of the population of Britain, are now heartily sick of this, but it does at least mean we can keep on comfort eating.

And so that was the plan for tonight’s dinner with my friends H and C. The dream was to find somewhere that did some kind of hearty pie and mash. And C came up trumps with her suggestion of The Windmill, a traditional pub in Mayfair that even runs its own Pie Club. It already has over 6,000 members, but we weren’t planning on joining, we just booked dinner in its impressive sounding Pie Room.

We felt at home, and warm and cosy, immediately. It’s a comforting space, with paintings around the walls, all a bit gentleman’s club-by. To start with, we decided to share some ham and cheese croquettes and cocktail sausages wrapped in pancetta.

But the main event, of course, was the pies. They’re all made on site, and are totally PROPER – with the pastry encasing the filling, top and bottom, rather than just sitting on top in the form of a lid. Between us, we ordered the Fish Pie with salmon and smoked haddock (C ), the Steak and Mushroom (H), and the Chicken, Leek and Bacon (me). They were all absolutely delicious; full of rich flavour, with a fantastically buttery pastry surrounding the contents. If this British winter continues into, say, July (which as this stage is horrifically easy to believe), I’ll be coming back here regularly.