Lately, it seems like every time I get the bus down Holloway Road, at least three new cafes, restaurants or kebab shops have sprung up, like tasty little mushrooms. And one of them is Bird, an interesting proposition that’s kind of half fast food, half diner style restaurant, with a focus on, guess what, chicken. There have been, of course, plenty of such places, such as Le Coq along the road on Highbury Corner, the mighty Chicken Shop in Kentish Town, Clutch, off Columbia Road, and Clockjack Oven in Soho. So I was keen to give this a try on a breezy Saturday afternoon, when thankfully it wasn’t too busy.

It’s on the site of what used to be a pub (the old signage hasn’t quite been painted over yet), and the colour theme is relentlessly bright and orange, but there are a few wooden booths coupled with some high sharing tables, and a longish bar at the back. After ordering a black cherry soda (for me) and a beer (for D), we studied the menu. We could have shared some wings, or chicken pieces, to start (both come with a choice of glazes or sauces, including buffalo, Korean gochujang, honey-ginger, buttermilk and blue cheese) but we decided to stick with a chicken burger each and a couple of sides.

The list of chicken burgers is interesting (for those not worried about their arteries you could try fried chicken smothered in maple syrup between two waffles), and we chose to share a Parm (with parma ham, marinara sauce, mozzarella and fresh herb mayo), and a West Coast (with guacamole, lettuce, tomato, house mayo and pickled jalapenos). The Parm came as a ginormous chunk of juicy chicken breast, smothered in cheese and with lashings of the tangy, tarragon-y mayo, which I couldn’t get enough of – it went really well with the chicken. The West Coast was less successful; the chicken was a bit thinner, and not as tasty somehow. We still finished it, obvs.

Sides of fresh cut fries and jalapeno corn pudding were good; the corn pudding in particular, with layers of corn kernels smothered in cheese, breadcrumbs and laced with bits of spicy pepper. There is a delicious sounding list of desserts, too, and they appear to specialise in doughnuts, which is something for another day. All in all it did the job, but I wouldn’t see it as somewhere I would go for a quiet, relaxing dinner. As a lunch stop, however, it’s great.

Value for money: 6.5/10

Food: 7/10

Atmos: 7/10