It’s not often my food is brought to the table by shovel (although I certainly regularly act as though I’m using one to stuff it into my gob) but this little gem in Argostoli, Kefalonia, is a bit of a must do at some point while you’re on the island. When I was there in July with my friends P, E and L, we stopped off here before heading back to the airport, after an amusing and relaxing week during which we even spotted an actual British celebrity (Simon Pegg. Very pleasant).

Ladokolla, at 13 Davi Street, is basic; so much so that it doesn’t even have a website, and is only open seasonally. But it’s bloody delicious, as it specialises in grilled meat, and service involves plonking everything down on paper tablecloths, brought either by the aforementioned shovel, or in some kind of bucket. Unsurprisingly, its no-frills policy means that it’s also dirt cheap.

We shared a little of everything: chicken souvlaki, pork gyros, grilled beef, accompanied by Greek salads, warm pitta breads, beetroot salad (actually amazing) and mounds of chips. It was all hot off the grill, perfectly seasoned, and incredibly tender. We got tzatziki to dip it all in, and spent the next 20 minutes stuffing our faces. It’s all that’s best about Greek food, really. Simple, unadorned, and unfussy, but with good local ingredients which taste of what they’re meant to. And the bill only came to about 6 euros each. Awesome.

Atmos: 8/10 – outdoors, surrounded by the smell of grilled meats

VFM: 10/10 – it was like they were paying us

Food: 8.5/10 – simple but delicious