Tucked away at the less fashionable end of Kingsland Road is former pop-up Mussel Men; I’m here to try its new summer menu, and am swiftly seduced by the fun surroundings. Waiting staff sport Breton-striped tops, Manga-like murals of giant squid adorn the walls, and various nets, ships’ flags and vintage pictures of ‘muscle men’ decorate the space, but it doesn’t feel tacky, living up to its description as a ‘whimsical seafood and cocktail specialist’.

Outside is a newly-opened beer garden, but my boyfriend and I sit indoors (thanks, British summer). The drinks list is pleasingly inventive – I have a One O’Clock Gun: a tart, refreshing mix of gin, basil, lime and bitters [£8] – and we dive straight into some firm, meaty flame-grilled mackerel with a sweet, crunchy, cubed heritage tomato and carrot salsa [£8], hand-dived scallops on a smoky cauliflower puree [£11] and three fresh Cumbrae oysters with shallot vinegar [£7.50].

As the name suggests, mussels are a speciality, and I’m bowled over by my pot cooked in a creamy saffron and turmeric broth [£14], tasting light and subtle, rather than strong and curried. My boyfriend’s Mediterranean Bisque version [£13] is a tad heavy on the sherry, and I’m not a fan of the aniseed flavour of the chopped chervil on our shared lobster roll [£16], but what gives this place its true originality is the opportunity to try thumb-wrestling the staff (I lose spectacularly against genial Scottish owner Robin) and the chance to try a ‘Bucky Bomb’: like a Jaegerbomb, but with a shot of tramps’ favourite tonic wine, Buckfast, in a glass of Irn Bru. All in all, a top night out. What I can remember of it.

Food: 7/10

Atmos: 8/10

Value for money: 7/10