‘Drink Sake, Stay Soba’, proclaims the neon sign in the cocktail bar in the basement of Sosharu, superchef Jason Atherton’s latest venture. And so my friend and I do, starting off one of the most delicious meals I’ve had recently with a small glass of Jozen Mizunogoteshi [£11], a mild, creamy sake whose name, the dapper Japanese sommelier tells us, means ‘just like water.’ This could get dangerous.

Sosharu is an izakaya-style restaurant, modelled on Japanese gastropubs; the interior is all blond wood and slate grey walls, around which young, hip staff dart, dressed in cool, Evisu denim aprons (want!). The vibe is small plates (the menu changes regularly); we order several, and are faced with a succession of creative flavours, beautifully presented – perfect for Instagram, obvs.

Standouts include the sea bream sashimi [£11.50], slices of delicate, translucent fish wrapped around crunchy slivers of potato on a bed of daikon; broccoli tempura [£5], which looks like it’s wearing a shaggy coat due to the thick layer of grated parmesan which envelops it, and provides a delicious umami hit; and the unbearably pretty – and monstrously tasty – chashu pork belly [£16]. The pork is tender and sweet, on a bed of al dente udon noodles, with a soft poached egg providing a silky coating.

Sake rears its head again at dessert, as we try a plum version (umeshu – tastes like amaretto, £12) and a yuzu one (like limoncello, £12.50). We also share a picture-perfect Matcha mille crepe [£8] – layers of green tea-flavoured thin pancakes – and a strawberry kakigori [£8], like a sweet slushie topped with Angel Delight (but posher). A classy – but not stuffy – affair.

Food: 9/10

Atmosphere: 8/10

Value for money: 8/10